CHANEL has been revisiting 1980s and 1990s silhouettes to celebrate its archive. After the PREMIÈRE watch and the 31 bag, this season’s Kelly reproduction caught vintage collectors off guard. To decide whether the old or new version offers better value, it helps to understand how the two differ.
CHANEL reproduces the discontinued model in the 1990s#
The new bag is officially called the Shopping Bag, but vintage buyers immediately associate it with the Party Kelly introduced in 1997.
Named after the Princess of Monaco#
The original Kelly debuted in the 1980s and took its name from Princess Grace Kelly of Monaco. The 1997 Party Kelly added a smaller flap profile.
Its sculpted top handle—known as the “Kelly handle”—reads intellectual and composed. The trapezoid body reinforces the bag’s retro character.
The entry price of second-hand Kelly starts from 50,000#
1990s Party Kelly bags were offered in cowhide as well as exotic skins such as lizard and crocodile. Pre-owned cowhide examples now exceed HK$50,000, while exotic versions have reached HK$770,000 at auction in Europe and the United States—evidence of how seriously collectors treat vintage Kelly bags.
## New version of Kelly with chain strap#
Unlike vintage Kellys, the 2023 reproduction features more pronounced quilting and a larger top handle. Materials include glossy aged calfskin and plain knit fabric. A detachable chain strap lets you wear it crossbody or on the shoulder. The Mini size currently retails for $34,300.
## Supported by Margot Robbie#
Margot Robbie helped drive buzz for the new Kelly when she carried the pink version during Barbie promotion. The bag sold through pre-orders before many stores could restock, and vintage Kelly inquiries spiked across the resale market.
## CHANEL 31 Bag has been reproduced three times#
Kelly is not CHANEL’s first archive revival. The 31 bag, launched in 1989, has returned three times since 2000. The name honors 31 rue Cambon in Paris and the French expression “se mettre sur son 31”—to dress one’s best.
31 Bag 80s vs. 2000s#
The 1989 31 came in large and small sizes with a rigid body, hollow circular handle cut from structured leather, and a classic leather-chain strap—formal and architectural.
The 2000 reproduction shifted to a horizontal silhouette with a shoulder strap and leather belt, often in color-blocked finishes for a more casual mood. CHANEL revived the 31 again in 2018 and 2023; the latest version pairs leather chain with a leather shoulder strap and adds mini sizing.
Rare model with high appreciation potential#
With the original 31 long out of production, vintage examples feel increasingly scarce—especially early 1989 versions. Resale prices for vintage 31 bags have climbed past HK$30,000 this year, making them hard to ignore for investment-minded collectors.
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